Thoughts 04 - Acts of Appreciation
How do you define wine and spirit appreciation? What does it mean to you? What’s the first image that pops into your head when you hear wine tasting? There is no right or wrong in how you define it, but there is definitely a difference in the outcome based on the reason of pursuit and expectations.
Let’s talk about exposure. The reality in wine and spirit appreciation is the monetary aspect which forms a barrier for many to grasp just how vast and complex the world is. Hypothetically, what happens if the barrier to exposure is removed, what would your approach be then? Let me share two very recent observations from my personal encounters.
I recently have had the opportunity to host a virtual guided tour in wine appreciation to a very high profile individual - so high that they had the VIP stay off camera and silent during the entire session - I was speaking into empty table at times. I had turned down the opportunity several times only partially due to the pandemic. When we agreed on hosting it virtually instead, it turned out to be a degrading, if not somewhat infuriating experience for me. Prior to the session, I was told that, since they have had many encounters to most prestigious wines in the world with names such as Pétrus, Lafite, and Romanée-Conti, so the wine list I provided for the course were too cheap and that they worry the VIP wouldn’t like how they taste - this includes wines such as Trimbach Riesling, Chablisienne “La Pierrelee” Chablis, and Stag’s Leap “Artemis” Napa Cab…etc.
They refused my suggestion to practice writing tasting notes but prepared the room fully equipped with a line up of Wine Aerators and decanters. The room looked very nice, but the guided tour went as how I expected it would. I can’t help but wonder when will desire for knowledge catch up to support the otherwise superficial ritualistic formality? As an educator, igniting passion and desire for knowledge has been the biggest challenge for me.
On the other end of the spectrum. I have had the pleasure to meet an industry professional with over 20 years in the business - now working as a cellar master of a liquor store. With real knowledge and that level of exposure to wine, it was again quite interesting to see the same discriminatory behaviour towards certain wines as the group from the last example - although for very different reasons. We talked about the major price increases on Tignanello 2017 and how it actually reflects the quality comparing to others at around the same price point. Having tasted so many different wines at different levels with intent, the cellar master had reached the conclusion and decided to be ruthless. While I appreciate our conversation and respect the cellar master’s opinion, I wonder again how can one truly enjoy wine if we were to be critical (it becomes a subconscious behaviour for professionals) about what’s in the glass? On the other hand, how can you truly enjoy wine without having learnt how to be critical? How would it in term drive producers to improve so we can drink better?
It is really a double-edge sword isn’t it? The constant pursuit for perfection strips out our ability to really enjoy what is in front of us. Without the pursuit for perfection, we would have mediocre experiences but wouldn’t be able to tell the difference. I look back many years ago on one of the very first wine tasting events I put together just for fun after having passed WSET Level 2. Would I drink those wines now? The answer was an interesting revelation that I too, am also discriminatory against certain wines and labels. Only I think for people like us, we can taste the level of intent and respect from the producers - in relation to how much they want to charge per bottle. I guess that’s really the question isn’t it? How much are you willing to pay to experience the journey with wine and spirit?
The relationship we have with these magical elixirs do not begin with the first pour, not even when we picked them up from the shelves. Ever since we first opened our eyes to perceive the world, we have been prepared to encounter that eventual bottle that may or may not change our lives. Are we really ready to appreciate them the way they were intended to be or will it just like many other missed opportunities? Again, there is no right and wrong, just for those who are willing, how are you investing your time and money so that you can capitalize these opportunities the right way?